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Lawn Aeration for a Greener, Thicker, Healthier Lawn!

Do you need Lawn Aeration?
If you live in Topeka, the answer is probably YES! One way to check for soil compaction (and, therefore, the need for core aeration) is to push a screwdriver into the ground up to the handle (about 3-4 inches). If this can be done without much pressure, you probably don't need to aerate. If you find that lawn aeration is necessary, lawn aeration is the best method. Spike aeration (popular in the 1950's) is not recommended because while you create a hole, you are compacting the surrounding soil.
Another way to test if you have clay based soil (almost all of northeast Kansas) and a compaction problem is to grab a handful of moist soil and squeeze it together. If it sticks together your soil needs lawn aeration. If it falls apart you have a loam based soil and do not need lawn aeration.

What is Compaction?
Compaction is the pressing together of soil particles, which squeezes air out of the soil. Most compaction occurs in the upper two inches of soil. The biggest cause of compacted soil is activity on soggy turf. Other causes include watering lawns and/or excessive tilling when preparing a seedbed. Construction and grading equipment used to build homes also has adverse effects.

Causes of Compaction
Children Playing Upper 1 inch of soil
Dogs Upper 1 inch of soil
Sports Activities (volleyball) Upper 2 inches of soil
Parking Cars on Lawn Upper 3 inches of soil

As soil is compacted, the soil’s aeration process becomes ineffective. Air spaces are squeezed out and filled with water. At this point, the soil is waterlogged and unable to drain. Waterlogged soil promotes shallow root growth. Compacted soil results in turf with low energy, poor growth, and thin yellow-green characteristics. It will not hold up well to traffic or weather stress. Playing on it would tear the turf more quickly than under normal conditions. Heat stress also causes the yard to wilt sooner. Under any of these conditions, recovery takes longer than it would for a healthy yard.

Benifits of core aerationMore Benefits of Lawn Aeration
Aeration loosens compacted soil and breaks up thatch. It allows water and other nutrients to seep into the soil, encouraging new root growth and establishing a stronger, deeper root base for a lusher, healthier turf. Another benefit of aeration is the reduction of water runoff and puddling.

By removing cores of soil, aeration provides space for roots and soil to expand, reducing further compaction. Aeration is also a method of thatch control, because the microorganisms brought to the surface of the lawn help break down thatch. All of these factors help the turf establish a deeper root base, making the lawn more heat- and drought-stress tolerant. (K-State Horticulture Report)

Lawn Aeration permits the root system to go deeper where the ground temperature is cooler and moister, allowing the grass to stay greener longer in the heat of the summer. Remember, 90% of grass is in the roots!

A healthy root system is a must for an attractive lawn. Oxygen in the soil is vital for healthy roots. Root growth is inhibited by clay and compacted soils because of a restricted oxygen supply. Aerating improves rooting and problem soils by allowing air into the soil. An aerator does this job mechanically without destroying the turf.1

  • Healthy roots are necessary for healthy lawns.
  • Roots make up 90 percent of the grass plant.
  • Roots take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide.
  • Restricted air movement into the soil reduces health and vigor of the turf.
  • Aerating equipment mechanically improves the movement of atmospheric air into the soil and carbon dioxide out of the soil.

Is raking up the plugs or cores necessary?
Most lawn care services and experts will tell you it is not necessary to rake up the plugs after aeration. The plugs will break up after a week or two. The next time you mow, you'll break up most of them, and nature will do the rest over a short period of time. Even though these soil remnants may look temporarily unsightly, the plug method is considered more effective because of this exchange of materials: Soil below the surface is brought up to the top, where it’s left to decay on its own and its nutrients gradually seep back into the ground, while water and fertilizer from above ground are brought down into the soil, where they’ll benefit grass roots.

However, other experts at agriculture universities believe you should rake up the plugs or cores if you have really poor soil. (Be aware this could require all day or weekend depending upon your yard size and ability.) If you do rake up your aeration plugs, remove as much thatch as possible and place it in a compost bin so you can return the compost as top dressing the next time lawn aeration is done. For really poor soil, you may not want these "cores" to dissolve and fill in the holes you just made in your lawn. You want the holes in your lawn to be filled in with new organic matter in the top dressing you apply. This way, your lawn's root system can begin to take advantage of the beneficial bacteria and microorganisms that are in the top dressing. Your organic matter should be much softer than the compacted poor soil just removed. The holes in the lawn give the roots area to expand. This will help the entire surface of the lawn to absorb water and fertilizer, while minimizing puddling and runoff.
After you rake up and remove the cores and thatch, fertilize your lawn as you normally would. Then spread a thin layer of top dressing over the entire surface of your lawn. Be careful not to completely bury and suffocate your lawn, while keeping in mind that you do want enough top dressing so that when you rake it in all directions repeatedly there is enough to fall into the holes. When you finish raking you should still see plenty of top dressing on the lawn surface, but the blades of the lawn should be predominately showing through. You'll may have to experiment in a small area until you get the hang of it. Finally, water thoroughly, as this will continue the gradual process of working the top dressing down into the lawn's root system.

How often should I aerate my lawn?
Homeowners should aerate their lawns in the fall when over seeding or applying fertilizer and in the spring for the first three years. There after, once a year in the fall when the soil is conditioned. Most lawns in Topeka have compacted clay soil which restricts the movement of air and soil to the roots. Unlike garden soil, the soil under lawns tends to compact readily because unlike that of garden soil it is never turned or worked with. For the lawn, aerating is an alternative to tilling.

Good drainage is one of the keys to having a healthy lawn, but all too often our lawns in Topeka are growing on heavy clay soil that packs down easily just with normal lawn use making drainage a real problem.